I heard that Isla Pasion, or Passion Island, is one of the major attractions in Cozumel. It’s known for its white sand beaches, clear turquoise water, and deserted island feel away from the main island.
I saw there were tours that went there when I initially researched the island. There’s also a way to get there that is self-guided. The plan was simple enough with my rented scooter and a taxi boat ride to the island.
What I didn’t realize was the tour groups that go there do not just show up to a deserted island. They show up to a bunch of integrated, resort-like amenities that I ended up stumbling upon.
I had a really great time relaxing and enjoying the beautiful water and beach at Passion Island without needing to pay the cruise ship excursion price.
Getting To Isla Pasion
I set out at 10:15am from my San Miguel accommodation and headed North. It only took about 15 minutes to make it to the final stretch of road to the dock.
This is where I had to slow down significantly. The road became a very bumpy dirt road. By road I mean ATV-jump course and by bumpy I mean WILD! This was definitely a challenging road that most people suggest can “only” be driven by a 4x4.
But I have a good track record with roads like this in vehicles that you “aren’t supposed to drive” without a 4x4. In fact, I think my scooter was actually a better option because I could navigate around most holes and huge bumps, sticking mostly to the flatter side of the road. I went right on passed the 4x4 vehicles bumping and bottoming out on this road!
Anyway, I arrived to a parking lot looking out over the water at the island. A small docking area was there. I parked next to some trees and out walked a man who asked me if I was going to Passion Island.
The cost was $15 USD. I handed him the money and he gave me his cell phone number to call when I would need to return. I followed him out to the end of the dock and he called a boat to come and pick me up.
I had my own private boat ride island hopping from Cozumel to Isla Pasion.
I jumped out of the boat into calf-deep water and watched from the beach as the boat pulled away.
It was quiet. And I was alone. Ahhh.
Finding Civilization
When I turned around up the short path, I saw a completely desolate beach and beautiful aqua water in the distance.
This was a very natural, unmaintained beach. I appreciated that aspect of it—but it wasn’t at all what the descriptions online said. I was expecting beautiful, white sand and seaweed-free, clear water—at least equal to what I could pay the boat taxi cost for back on Cozumel.
Not only that, the beach was kind of trashed! There was a lot of it strewn around here. If that wasn’t enough to disappoint, I started getting attacked by little no-see-ums (either mosquitos or sand flies or both). They were viscous!
Passion Island was starting to feel like Trash-on Island. But I was determined. This island had to have something to offer, even if just a nice hike, right?!
I followed a path into a wooded area up ahead.
The views from this side of the beach were not too bad! But not good enough. I pushed into the shaded forest.
There was just barely a beaten path here. I had to duck or push through some brambles at parts.
After about 5 minutes of walking, I saw a clearing. In the distance was a dock—well that seems like something. I continued on ahead.
By about 11am, I made it to a clearing that was starting to look more like an established area. In the distance I could see pristine beach and ocean.
Sure enough, I had arrived!
And apparently, so had the tours! I was there right when the first boat landed from the excursion tours. I honestly had no idea that my arrival was timed with their arrival—but there I was.
Default Amenities
Looking down the beach, I could see lounge chairs and a lot more. I only had interest in experiencing the island as-is—not really in any man-made amenities. But again, here I was.
After visiting Passion Island, I looked up the cost of the tours and found that the cruise ships charge $85 or more to experience all the Island has to offer. I also saw a $65 all-inclusive pass with transport from the main Cozumel port.
The island has a bunch of amenities and experiences for both adults and children. These include buffet, some drinks, showers, lockers, restrooms, lounge chairs, water toys and inflatables, kayaks, hammocks, massage beds, tequila tasting, souvenir shopping, and more.
As far as I could tell, some of these amenities, like massage and the cash bar, were extra even for those with the pass.
What did I pay? I paid the cost of my daily scooter rental ($17) and boat transfer ($15). I brought my own food ($5 groceries). That’s at least half price!
As I explored the area, I had my eye on a section of the beach with beautiful white tents and bohemian pillows set up. But I would go back to that later because there was something else I wanted to do first.
Kayaking For Free
Back home in Florida, I enjoy kayaking. I don’t often get to use a hard top kayak. I also tend to explore the same areas closest to me around Miami. So I was excited to get to paddle the beautiful turquoise waters along the beaches of Passion Island.
I saw others pulling yellow kayaks out to the water. When I asked where they got them, they pointed over to one on the beach. I looked around and nobody else was using it and nobody was there requesting a fee. I followed the others out to the water and went for a paddle.
The water was super crystal clear and shallow enough to see right down to the white sandy bottom.
I paddled far away from the crowded beach and out toward the farthest end. The beach was less maintained here, but still nice. Now I felt like I was on a truly deserted and beautiful island.
Beach Canopy
I eventually made my way back to the main beach area and put the kayak back up on the beach for others to use. I snorkeled for a bit here with my own gear. I saw a couple of stingrays and some fish, but not much else.
I then made my way over to one of the boho canopies set up in rows. I chilled here for awhile. Read my book. Nobody bothered me.
By now it was 3pm. The transport boats arrived and were taking people back. I gathered my things and went toward the woods to give my boat taxi a call.
In Conclusion
Check out this video summary of my experience:
Paying for an all inclusive experience like an organized tour to Isla Pasion is not my jam. But when I visited Isla Pasion, I stumbled upon one of the beaches that hosts these tours.
I was living on Cozumel for over a week, paying for my accommodation in a local’s home, using a scooter I rented from a local company, eating groceries from a local shop, and I paid for a local boat taxi out to the island. I was already paying into my experience before I arrived. So stumbling upon this beach meant I was able to experience it alongside those who were there for an expensive excursion—at a fraction of the price.
There were definitely parts of the experience I could have taken more advantage of but the activities I engaged in didn’t feel exploitative to me, especially considering I already paid in various ways to get there and be there.
In the end, I really enjoyed this self-guided experience on Isla Pasion! If you prefer to have an adventure getting there and doing it a bit differently, I hope this guide helps!
